Most acrylics are suitable for laser cutting, but some factors, such as color and type, can affect the process. For example, diode lasers with blue light cannot cut blue or clear acrylic. It is crucial to test the specific acrylic you plan to use, ensuring it is compatible with your laser cutter and produces the desired results.

To cut clear acrylic, you need a laser that emits infrared beams that can be absorbed by the transparent material. A CO2 laser cutter, with a wavelength of 10,640 nm (infrared light), is a good option for this purpose. A CO2 laser can cut through clear acrylic sheets with a glossy, flame-polished edge without any additional post-processing. A diode laser cutter, on the other hand, cannot cut clear acrylic because its light will travel through it.

Unfortunately, cutting clear acrylic with a diode laser isn't possible. Diode lasers typically emit light in the visible spectrum, and clear acrylic is transparent to these wavelengths. The laser light would simply pass through the material without cutting it.

No, a diode laser cannot cut through white acrylic. White acrylic reflects the wavelength emitted by a diode laser. Since laser light isn't absorbed, it doesn't have enough energy to cut through the material.

The optical power of the laser cutter determines how thick of an acrylic sheet it can cut. A diode laser with 40W like xTool S1 can cut up to 15mm thick black acrylic in one pass. This is the highest optical power available for desktop diode laser cutting machines as of now.

CO2 laser cutting machines are more suitable for acrylic laser cutting. They have higher optical power and can cut through thicker acrylic sheets in one pass and can cut acylic of any color. For example, xTool P2 can cut up to 20 mm thick acrylic in only one pass.

The power of the laser required to cut acrylic will depend on several factors, including the thickness of the acrylic sheet and the desired cutting speed. For example, a 55W CO2 laser can cut up to 20mm acrylic in one pass. Higher-powered lasers can be used for thicker acrylic or faster cutting speeds.

Acrylic sheets usually come with two types of protective film: plastic masking and paper masking. It is generally recommended to remove the film before laser engraving, as sometimes melted bits are tedious to pick out. For laser cutting, you can leave the paper or plastic film on especially for large cut projects, and if it's a small cut, you can only remove the part to be cut on.

To prevent burn marks when laser cutting acrylic, use the correct laser settings (power, speed, and pass), and maintain the focus of the laser beam. Keeping the paper protective film on acrylic may also help reduce burn marks. Additionally, using air assist, which blows air over the cutting area, can help minimize heat buildup and remove debris from the cut, reducing the risk of burn marks.

The ideal settings for laser cutting acrylic depend on your specific laser cutter model, the thickness of the acrylic, and the desired cutting speed. Always refer to your laser cutter's manual for recommended settings, and perform test cuts to determine the optimal combination for your project.

To clean acrylic after laser cutting or engraving, gently remove any protective film, if present, and use a soft cloth or sponge dampened with a mild soap and water solution to wipe the surface. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive materials, as they may scratch or damage the acrylic. Rinse with clean water and pat dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.

The fumes from laser cutting acrylic are not lethal but they can be unpleasant and irritating to the lungs. They can also cause headaches, nausea, eye irritation, and respiratory problems. Therefore, it is important to use an appropriate exhaust system and ventilation and wear a respirator when laser cutting acrylic. The fumes can also linger on the laser cut acrylic for some time after cutting, so it is advisable to place the finished project in a well-ventilated area.